Celebrating #chrisbrown’s life today. ran into so many old names. beautiful sendoff for a one-of-a-kind friend of ours. l-r in order of appearance. chris, chloe brown, dave brown, @sunnygarcia, nathan brown, jamie george, @travlee, bobby martinez, kasey curtis.
Happy valentine’s day, my love. so many trips and adventures over the years (but i need help arranging and accessing my pics!). and there’s no way to talk about us without our third-wheel child in the picture, @actionthedog. a few throwbacks of all of us thrown (even from before action had a name and found herself). hope everyone is having a great day!
We humans have figured out some strange ways to f up this world. this is insanity. imagine all the sugar and ingredients contained in these bottles and the effects on our health from that and the plastic containers leaching chemicals. and then there’s the impacts on the land to grow and source all the ingredients. did you know, in some states in the us it’s illegal to capture rainwater on your own property or even grow food in your yard in some communities because it’s unsightly? but imagine if all these bottled drinks were replaced with rainwater we had at home. i’m not trying to say i’m not a part of this conditioning we’re accustomed to i’m just saying i’m grossed out by it. maybe it takes seeing this to do something about it. all this eventually flows to the ocean which ends up in fish and bird diets and has further effects on the environment and our health. we don’t have much of an option but to think about it. i wonder what my house would look like if i kept all the garbage i created in a year inside or how long it would take to fill up my whole house so there was no space left to sleep or eat. has anyone tried that?
22 years ago today chesser checked out. i remember that day like it was yesterday but it feels like it was in another lifetime. some people leave a mark that you never quite totally process. cheese and brock were two of those guys, probably the most legendary friends our crew will ever have known when all is said and done.
At #surfranch for my 47th with some friends with @toddglaser getting barreled in the background right now! •
• @outerknown is doing a secret sale for my bday for 20% off with the code bday. 20% of the sales from today go to @oceanconservancy. i love the work they do and we have a history of working with them at outerknown. so for my birthday, i’d love to raise some extra funds for them and give another day of discounts to our customers. •
and a huge thanks for the support and love everyone’s been showing outerknown as of late. it’s proof that people understand our goals and respect the mission of using environmentally friendly textiles and fair trade production facilities in our supply chain. we were the first ever brand to be fair trade labor certified before selling a single item of clothing and the quickest brand to ever do it through official channels. help get the word out to understand where your clothes come from and who makes them. anyway...enough of my rant. enjoy your (my?) day! 😀 ✌🏽🏄🏽♂️
Winter warehouse sale up thru midnight tonight pst. it’s been freezing lately all over the states and our beanies, jackets, sweats, and tons of warm clothes are all up to 70% off. tomorrow is my 47th birthday and we’re gonna have some sort of surprise for that as well. check it out on @outerknown link in profile or outerknown.com. and thanks for all the great messages i’ve received this week about the brand and clothes! ✌🏽👌🏽
Spent last night talking story with these guys... @thomasvictorcarroll and #danekealoha. andy’s always hanging around at my place, too. good to see dane really itching to surf and ready for action once he gets his neck sorted out. tom’s a bionic man with a new knee and ready for whatever the ocean throws at him. dane was laughing at how they used to call tom ‘tommy gun’ and tom and i were recounting all our dane stories from years ago! check the video clip, too. dane’s story needs to be told and i think we’re gonna start working on that. i met these guys both in 1982 when i was 10 years old and still have their autographs from that day. if you’ve got a dane or tom story, please leave it below. 👇🏽
@sunnygarcia and i have been talking s**t to each other since probably 1987 but this piece from ‘93 is pretty good! haha. you’re supposed to leave it in the water but we clearly didn’t get the memo. 😀🎞 #tournotes@peterkingphoto
Is this the best pipeline shot of all time? kohl christensen (@deepwatersurf ) two nights ago on his last wave of the day, on the best day of the year, on his final ride before the birth of his second daughter...a roll-in from second reef on an 8’6” brewer. this picture sums up why we surf. and nobody seems to be more in tune with the ocean than kohl. oh, and his best friend got the shot from a jet ski in the channel. 🤷🏽♂️ @_danielrusso_ you should make some limited edition prints of this one. 📷 🎞 🏄🏽♂️
It’s taken me a couple days to even want to think about it. chris brown and i were nearly inseparable as teenagers. this guy was just such an excited, happy light in my childhood. he introduced me to #almerrick and @cisurfboards. my brother and i stayed with chris and his family on the mesa in sb a couple summers and traveled to mexico, australia, england, puerto rico, hawaii, and beyond with chris and his dad, dave. we used to sit in his house and just goof off all day listening to his brother play every heavy metal song we knew on his guitar. the day i got my first al shape when i was 16, chris and i drove back and forth twice in the same day to lompoc to surf cause sb had no waves. we’d listen to gnr in his brown truck. he used to mess with #joshbradury when josh would follow us in his car by waiting at a turn signal, pretending his car had something wrong with it, even getting out to check the engine, until the light was very yellow and then jump in and take off, leaving josh stuck for another light! haha. chris and i shaped a board together in his parent’s backyard, each shaping a rail. being from the east coast and riding @matt_kechele shapes, i had thick, rounded rails while chris had been schooled on the finer, precision rails that worked well at rincon. when we finally felt the board we laughed and decided we had to have chris reshape mine down to feel like his rail. he actually won a #psaa event on that board cause al was gone for a month somewhere and he had broken his favorite board. i felt a huge sense of pride that he had competed on that thing. chris, sean, and i made ourselves wooden boards to ride the ice plant down the mesa in front of his house. i guess the waves were so flat all summer we had no better ideas. we would skate down the steep hills to the channel islands shop to pass time when there was nothing else to do. it was so exciting being from the east coast, knowing chris, and then getting to know the channel islands family. it was truly life changing for me. chris surfed like tom curren (@curfuffle ). you would see the lineage in every wave he rode and being around that style as a kid was so inspiring.... #yeahchris!
@kai_lenny at jaws the other day got me like 😳🙈 proof that all that cross sports training from windsurfing to kiting is working out. the crazy part is you can’t even see any track behind from where he took off. it reminds me of the olympic ski jump, balancing in the offshore wind. maybe you should try that next, kai. 🤷🏽♂️ 📷 @fred_pompermayer