A big thanks to @breitling for bringing me out to their flagship store in nyc to launch our watch collab with @outerknown last week. looking forward to more of this with our #squadonamission teams in the coming months and years. ✌🏽
I heard this story about @gerrylopezsurfboards going to kirra in the 70’s and the guys asking him how he rode the tube so well and he said something to the effect of, ‘put your front hand in the middle of the barrel in front of you and follow it’. imagine the stoke (i get) seeing him at #surfranch carving and getting barreled. and of course the wind goes south for him (offshore on the left).
The last 2 days of surfing has been a serious overload! @stephaniegilmore wins her 7th world title at honolua bay, @kealakennelly wins the women’s event at peahi in the biggest jaws in years before it gets even bigger and called off for the men’s after one heat only to then watch @kai_lenny , @tysimpsonkane, and one or two others tow perfect 60’ barrels while a few guys like @live.fast.die.old paddled just a couple waves. and then today they finished the men at jaws with @billykemper narrowly edging @kai_lenny out for his third win in 4 years (and a 2nd last year), and @rissmoore10 takes out the finish of the final women’s event of the year at absolutely perfect surf at honolua over @maliamanuel in the final. i’m tired just from watching. glad everyone is safe. there was some serious carnage going down. if you haven’t watched it i hope you find a replay. i’ll find a link and put in my bio. congrats to all and thanks for the show(s)! maybe sunset will be back on tomorrow. crazy week. what was your favorite part of all the action?#areyounotentertained?!
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link in bio. 🙏🏽
A small snippet to say i’m thankful for more than i can remember, but most of all i’m thankful for my parents taking us to the beach so we could fall in love with surfing so young. i’m thankful for the rights and wrongs, the amazing memories and the ones i wish i could forget, the places traveled to and cultures encountered, the friends alive and those who’ve passed, the legends before us and the kids leading us beyond the now, the opportunity to do things in both work and pleasure that i love, and the chance to stop at any time and put it all in perspective. thank you to my immediate family and so many other families, friends, work associates, supporters, and to @snoopdogg for reminding us to thank ourselves also! 😀🙏🏽
i only learned today that #thanksgiving was first recognized as a federal holiday by abraham lincoln during the civil war in 1863. it was intended to honor the dead and celebrate the friends and family still with us. it became misconstrued along the way when people attached historical inaccuracies and untruths, forgetting or outright ignoring the atrocities committed against native americans (and others) while attaching false stories to sugar coat the truth of it all. let’s remember to reconcile for the wrongdoings while being thankful for what we each have today. over and out! ✌🏽 #🦃day
It’s hard to believe i’m writing this but rest in peace my friend. • #chrisjensen was my best friend on this earth at one point in time, always there through good times and bad to pick up the phone, go for a surf, play some golf, ride carve boards. this kind soul brought me so many funny, happy memories and introduced me to lots of people who’ve become lifelong friends.
we’ll keep your memory alive and you can live on with us. i can’t grasp that you’re gone. thank you, buddy. i miss you so much already. it hasn’t even sunken in yet. not sure when it will be real for me/us...🙏🏽🏄🏽♂️🏌🏽♂️🏂🏝